Kent County Cuisine--As Fresh As It Gets (travel article)

The benefits of eating locally sourced food are well lauded, from increased flavor and freshness to reduced waste, transit pollution and fuel consumption. Islanders naturally realize these advantages as their geographical limitations demand resourcefulness of everything the environment offers.

While Kent County, Maryland isn’t technically an island, it is nearly surrounded by water. Native tribes and early settlers thrived on its bounties from the sea and its fruitful soil. Fortunately, their traditions of self-reliance continue to prosper with residents today.

Fare with Fresh Air

Dining al fresco brings you closer to food’s origins, and when the weather in Kent County warms the tables are set for outdoor dining. The wraparound deck overlooking the Chester River isn’t the only thing elevated at 98 Cannon Riverfront Grille. Chef Golder takes his casual cuisine menu quite seriously with local daily catch, farm-to-table favorites, handmade brick-oven pizzas, craft beers and brunch. And when the deck gets crowded, they bring the outdoors in by raising their garage-door style walls.

Unlike sandcastles, memories formed on the shores of Betterton Beach pass the test of time. The same holds true at Barbara’s on the Bay, a cozy seaside restaurant where owner Barbara Esmonde’s warmth contributes as much to her flavorful dishes as the locally sourced ingredients do. Dine on the deck overlooking the beach and let the fresh ocean air augment your experience.

Italians add a pinch of passione to everything they serve, it’s what makes a dish authentically Italian. At Luisa’s Cucina Italiana, they’re passionate about purchasing locally—from produce, meats and dairy to wines. And when the weather’s right, dine as the Romans do—all’aperto.

K-B Market supplies many area restaurants, such as Luisa’s. Discover why firsthand. Their commercial cooking space hosts private group dining—catered specifically to your group’s dietary whims. And their customized cooking classes show you how to use seasonal and indigenous ingredients to make the most of what Mother Nature provides. Throw a gingham cloth on their outdoor picnic tables for a touch of casual country elegance.

In Kent County, you’re never far from the water, but as you move inland the blue-water vistas are replaced by lush, verdant fields. There, you’ll find Molly’s Restaurant where their family-style atmosphere pairs perfectly with their fresh-off-the-farm approach. Grass-fed beef from nearby Crow Farms and just-picked produce from area growers feature throughout the menu. When the sun is shining, make like a sunflower and soak it up on the patio. Further eastward in Millington, Two Tree Restaurant picks produce from their own vegetable and herb gardens to flavor their signature dishes. Patio seating isn’t available, but take-out is.

Market Fresh

Whether you get a primer at a K-B Market cooking class or you’re already at home in the kitchen, shop for the freshest ingredients at area grocers and natural food stores. Cross Street Food & Garden offers a diverse collection of locally curated products including fresh produce, seasonal plants and herbs, natural oils and supplements, gluten-free items, homemade baked goods, honey, candy and snacks.

Find more of the same at Fresh Start Food and Garden, known for their diverse selection and competitive pricing. While Bayside Foods is more of a full-service grocer, they do regularly stock local produce to support area farms, offer fresh seasonal items and reduce transit waste. Plus, if you’ve arrived by boat, they’ll deliver your provisions to the marina.

Chestertown Natural Foods boasts the “largest selection of organic produce on the upper eastern shore of Maryland.” They also have a Certified Nutrition Counselor on staff to guide customers toward the best nutritional decisions. Need further instruction about implementing a healthy food plan? Consult the holistic practitioners at The Seed House.

Connoisseurs and gourmands alike enjoy browsing the shelves and cold cases at Chester River Wine & Cheese, specializing in locally raised pork, beef, lamb and duck plus local cheeses and wines to make your meal extraordinary.

Fresh Off the Farm

Go straight to the source for many of Kent County’s indigenous delicacies—like seafood, produce and honey. To help fund research for technologically sound food sustainability, the Washington College Eastern Shore Food Lab bottles and sells local honey. They plan to expand their product line to include much more, from bone broth to yogurt.

Watermen get up early to snag the day’s catch, but you can sleep in and select from the best of their bounty at Clark’s Seafood or True-Blue compliant Chester River Seafood. Both also specialize in Maryland blue crabs in season (April through November), available live or steamed on-site.

Shop a collection of area growers at the Chestertown Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market, Saturdays late April to mid-December. Survey the freshest produce and handcrafted goods, like Eve’s Cheese—offering six varieties made by Amish cheesemakers with milk produced at Fawnwood Farm, a third-generation family farm whose cows (Jersey, Guernsey, Brown Swiss and Milking Shorthorns) are antibiotic- and compound-free.

Missed the market? Buy direct from farms or roadside stands. Find nutrient-rich produce and eggs at Red Acres Hydroponics’ Food Store, featuring a variety of lettuces and herbs grown hydroponically (which uses significantly less water, less fertilizer and no pesticides) on their century farm—owned and operated by the same family for more than 100 years.

Get up close and personal with your produce at Lockbriar Farms, another family-owned operation, where seasonal fruits and vegetables are there for the picking. Afterwards, treat yourself to their homemade ice cream, churned with locally sourced milk and flavored with home-grown fruit. Or, visit Redman Farms’ seasonal roadside stand where you’ll find fresh-picked produce, fresh-cut flowers, a variety of grains, hay and straw (April through October at Chestertown Road, aka MD-20, and Bakers Lane).

Harvested and Handcrafted Locally

Figgs Ordinary is an eatery whose commitment to honoring their community and Mother Earth goes way beyond ordinary. Nearly all their ingredients come from local producers—even the dishes are made by a local potter—and they follow a “zero-waste” protocol: Food scraps are composted; to-go cartons and utensils are compostable; and they encourage patrons to bring their own to-go containers.

Breaking bread with a friend is bound to bring you closer. At Evergrain Bread Company, handcrafted, small-batch bread and pastries are baked daily and guaranteed to warm your soul. If there’s a chill in the air, cozy up with a steaming beverage, made to order.

But one cannot live on bread alone… we need wine, too! Winemaking is a family tradition for the two Ecuadorians who founded Casa Carmen Winery, a boutique winery dedicated to crafting dry, Spanish-influenced wines of uncompromising quality from carefully sourced vineyards. Ask about their hosted dinners.  

At Crow Vineyard and Winery, you can sip, savor and stay. This working farm and winery is also a charming bed-and-breakfast inn. Check their calendar for special events including holiday dinners, blending seminars and seasonal harvesting activities.

The stills are rarely still at Bad Alfred’s Distilling. Sip on handcrafted, small-batch brandy, rye, gin and grappa, or local micro-brew options, while you nibble away on a hearty wood-fired pizza.

Kent County might be somewhat remote, but their culinary traditions are definitely worth traveling for. Plan your stay at kentcounty.com/visitors.

See the published version here.