“The first river you paddle runs
through the rest of your life. It bubbles up in pools and eddies to remind you
who you are.”
~ Lynn
Culbreath Noel
When seen
from above, waterways resemble Mother Earth’s arteries, delivering sustenance throughout
the land. Look at a map of Kent County, Maryland
and you’ll immediately see the plethora of arterial canals that feed this
vibrant area. From freshwater rivers and streams to saltwater inlets and bays, paddling
enthusiasts know these channels deliver many gifts to those who go with the
flow.
Two hundred
years before Lewis and Clark made their westward expedition, John Smith charted
the waters around the Chesapeake Bay, mapping an estimated 3,000 miles, known
today as the Captain John Smith Chesapeake National Historic Trail—an all-water
trail system within the National Park Service. Discover two of those trails,
the Chester River and Sassafras River water trails, in Kent County:
Sassafras River Water Trail
This
20-plus mile, east to west running river defines the northern boundary of the county
with its shallow headwaters originating near the town of the same name. Put in
at the Foxhole public
landing to enjoy the tranquility of the heavily wooded and narrow route.
As you row between the dense foliage on either shore, imagine the encounters Smith had with the Massawomeck and
Tockwogh tribes while mapping the waterway more than 400 years ago.
Flowing
westward, the river widens with idyllic farmland gracing its banks. Passing
through the twin communities of Georgetown and Fredericktown, paddlers are
promised a lively recreational area (especially during the summer months). Venture
into secluded creeks for respite from the action. Catching the opening of the
State Route 213 drawbridge while you paddle past is a special treat that might
just call for a break. Enjoy a full-service
meal at the Georgetown
Yacht Basin, a family owned
and operated marina serving boaters since 1949. You can also launch from their
pad and pick up supplies for your voyage.
Further
downstream, in addition to a concrete ramp, Turner’s
Creek includes park facilities to throw horseshoes or play a
friendly game of volleyball. The neighboring Sassafras
Natural Resource Management Area offers trails to explore when you
need to stretch your legs, and the natural sandy beaches along the shore are a
great place to swim and enjoy a picnic lunch. The area is famous for its lotus
blossoms during July and August (and sometimes into September). Their seeds lie
dormant for hundreds of years, so today’s blooms may have been seeded when
Smith paddled through—nature’s gift from the past.
As
the river nears its confluence with the Chesapeake Bay, steep bluffs stretch
skyward and bald eagles can often be seen soaring overhead. The Town of
Betterton offers a concrete ramp, and after a day on the water, Betterton
Beach is a beautiful place to relax, watch the sun set over the bay, and
reflect on your journey.
Chester River Water Trail
Tracing
the county’s southern border is the longer Chester River--forty-plus miles from
Millington
to Rock
Hall with numerous creeks branching out to add up the paddling
mileage.
Though
Smith only visited the river’s mouth and did not chart its course, a variety of
public
landings along the river and creeks make it convenient for modern-day
explorers.
As
the tides roll in, pick up where Smith left off and paddle upstream from the
Chester’s three-mile-wide mouth south of Rock Hall. Venture into Gray’s Inn or
Langford creeks, each with three public
landings. Or, if you prefer to leave the logistical planning to the
experts, Chester River Kayak Adventures offers many half- and full-day guided tours of this
area. They’ll point out notable landmarks and help you sight wildlife along the
way.
About
halfway up the river, the historic community of Chestertown provides a
quaint glimpse of history. A major shipping port from the early 1700s, the town
banned the buying, selling and drinking of tea in protest to the British Tea
Act and is believed to have conducted its own version of the Boston Tea Party. Paddling
along Chestertown’s majestic waterfront, you’ll parade past stately, colonial
riverfront homes and elegant sailboats including the regal HMS Sultana,
a reproduction of the Royal Navy schooner that patrolled the coastline.
For
only $30 per person, the Sultana Education Foundation
offers fully outfitted, small group Public
Paddles tours for
all skill levels. Their expert naturalists
guide groups via kayak to various
locations throughout the Chesapeake to view wildlife like herons, bald eagles,
ospreys and turtles; historic locations and ancient Indian ruins; lotus blooms,
salt marshes and tidal creeks. There’s even a moonlight paddle. Check their Public
Paddles 2018 Calendar for up-to-date itineraries and pack the
binoculars.
Downstream
from Chestertown’s High Street public
landing, just past the Chester River Yacht & Country Club,
you’ll encounter an Oyster Recovery Area. Established in 1996 through
partnership with numerous organizations, the sanctuary restores oyster
populations and creates vital habitat for fish and crabs.
As
with its northern neighbor, the upper Chester River is narrow and heavily
wooded as it winds its way downstream from Millington toward
Crumpton. The best load in will be Shadding
Reach Landings’ soft launch, and if the wind cooperates, paddling
upstream should be a breeze. Too shallow for most motor boats, this bucolic
stretch gives its paddlers the gift of peaceful reflection as its glassy waters
become a mirror for the skies. Quietly glide along the verdant shoreline to
observe waterfowl and the occasional deer visiting its favorite watering spot;
sit back and watch hawks and eagles soaring overhead; enjoy the solitude and
the inner reflection it brings.
Eastern Neck National Wildlife Refuge - Island Water Trail
On an island at the southern tip of Kent County where the Chester
River meets the Chesapeake Bay, this wildlife sanctuary provides nearly 2,300
hundred acres of habitat for native and migratory birds as well as mammals,
amphibians, reptiles, insects and invertebrates both in and out of the water. Launch
your craft at the end of Bogles Wharf Road for the 10-mile Island Water
Trail circuit. But
first, stop at the Visitor
Center Bookstore and pick up a
waterproof floating map to guide you to seven points of interest—from historical
to ecological. Use special caution while transiting the Bayside shores as
currents, tides and winds can be challenging.
As Pierre Trudeau
said, “What sets a
canoeing expedition apart is that it purifies you more rapidly and inescapably
than any other… Paddling a canoe is a source of enrichment and inner renewal.”
So, get out on the water and start dipping your oars.
Find
everything you need at KentCounty.com including rentals and
guides, and if
trailering your rig, be sure to order a permit to use the public
landings.
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