Walk with Nature, History, and Art in Great Falls (travel article)

“Walking is the best possible exercise. Habituate yourself to walk very far.”
– Thomas Jefferson

Wise words and so true. Walking is easy on the frame. It frees the mind to roam along with the body, and it calms mental chatter—like a reset button for your brain. Walking builds stamina; exerts muscles and lungs on an upward path. Trek far enough and you will go amazing places. In Great Falls, there are many amazing places, and they’re all within walking distance.

“One may walk over the highest mountain one step at a time.”
– Barbara Walters

The Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex (commonly known as the Bob) is an outdoor lover’s paradise. This federally preserved 1.5 million acres hugs the Continental Divide and reaches elevations above 9,000 feet. Its trails could be wandered for weeks, though many are just a short drive and a day-hike away. These will get you going:

Devil’s Glen via Dearborn River Trail (6 miles round trip). Don’t be fooled by the name, this little meadow is heavenly. Maggie Carr, co-owner and guide at Dropstone Outfitting, describes it as a “nice summer hangout with rock pools, narrow canyons and a well-defined, moderately difficult trail.” Provision your day pack for a picnic and relax as the verdant waters of the Dearborn River rush by.

Blackleaf Canyon Trail immediately parades you past incredible scenery as you’re enveloped by 800-foot canyon walls stretching toward the big blue sky. Call out a greeting—the rock faces are sure to echo your sentiments. These welcoming limestone walls near the trailhead also beckon to rock climbers, offering routes from beginner to advanced. Explore the canyon for an easy jaunt or continue to Blackleaf Pass for a 1,500-foot ascent (7.4 miles round trip).

For a one-of-a-kind, overnight getaway, pack supplies a mile north of South Fork Sun Campground to historic Kenck Cabin and settle in like Dr. Kenck did. The nearby South Fork Sun Trailhead provides access to the South Fork Sun River and the Continental Divide Trail among others, including those that lead to the epic Chinese Wall…

This thousand-foot-high limestone ridge spans for 12, 15, maybe even 22 miles, depending on who you ask. But everyone agrees, you’ll have to hike at least 18 miles just to get there. Thankfully, it’s a jaw-dropping journey past dense woods, alpine groves, grassy meadows, waterfalls, creeks, rivers and wildlife. This multi-day backpack adventure starts at South Fork Sun Trailhead, but don’t sweat the details, hire an expert outfitter to get you there.

“Perhaps the truth depends on a walk around the lake.”
– Wallace Stevens

You might forgo the walk around Our Lake after traversing the steep 3.1-mile trail that gets you there. You’ll forget the breather when you see the pristine lake, waterfalls, wildflowers and maybe a herd of mountain goats. Plus, it’s pretty much all downhill from there. Take 89 west from Choteau toward Eureka Reservoir, then left to the end of South Fork Road to find the Headquarters Creek trailhead.

The aptly named Lost Lake, a hidden gem near the Highwood Mountains, formed during the last glacial period, when volcanic activity forced melting glacial lakes and river runoff into a drainage known as the Shonkin Sag. Over time, these prehistoric flood waters cut through laccolith rock forming huge waterfalls rivaling Niagara’s. After a short wander through an ethereal prairie dotted with boulders that look like giant cow patties, you’ll abruptly arrive at the precipitous dry falls. Peek over the ledge 300 feet down at the small, reflective lake and marvel at the now simple magnificence of an ice-age flood. From Highwood, take MT 288 North to the graveled Shonkin Road; continue on Shonkin to Lost Lake Road and follow it to the parking area just past Sand Lake.

“In every walk with nature one receives far more than he seeks.”
– John Muir

Memorial Falls Trail loops past two waterfalls and Belt Creek on a well-maintained, albeit steep and narrow, one-mile trail. This little jaunt offers a beautiful opportunity for every skill level. Then, spend the day up Highway 89 at Sluice Boxes State Park where a wide range of habitats converge along Belt Creek. The area was home to prospectors and railroaders during the late-1800s’. Discover their remnants and wander through the small ghost town of Albright to get a sense for their daily lives. Back in Great Falls, get another feel for the lifestyles of times gone by with the Historic Lower Northside Residential Walking Tour.

Experience a day in the life of another community at First Peoples Buffalo Jump State Park. Along the 3.5-mile Loop Trail is the site where for hundreds of years Native Americans drove bison over a cliff. As you stand at the edge of the jump, it’s easy to conjure images worthy of a Charles M. Russell painting. See one for yourself at the C.M. Russell Museum. Or, participate in your own modern-day Buffalo Hunt as you locate 26 life-size bison replicas throughout Great Falls.

Back when buffalo were plentiful, a towering rock formation marked the entrance to the native peoples’ rich hunting grounds. As Lewis and Clark encountered the 400-foot tall landmark on July 16, 1805, Captain Lewis was compelled to make an entry in his journal. Today, Tower Rock State Park celebrates the historical importance of this place. Walk the short trail to the base of its saddle and enjoy the view.

While the trailblazing woman Sacagawea was aiding the Lewis and Clark expedition, she became deathly ill. Fearing her death, Lewis administered an elixir from a sulfuric spring. Her ensuing recovery is credited to those waters. Visit the site via the Sulphur Springs Trail, an easy 4-mile prairie loop along the Mighty Mo.

Continue your exploration of significant historical sites on the River’s Edge History Walking Tour. Included on that tour is the Lewis & Clark National Historic Trail Interpretive Center where you’ll learn more about discoveries and challenges of the famed expedition. Meanwhile, the History Museum chronicles the pastimes of people, places and events that characterize Great Falls.

“A line is a dot that went for a walk.”
– Paul Klee

Anytime you venture into wilderness, be prepared and plan ahead. USDA Forest Service maps of Bob Marshall, Great Bear, and Scapegoat Wilderness Areas; the Gates of the Mountains Wilderness & Recreation Area; and the Helena-Lewis & Clark National Forest may be purchased online. The Montana Wilderness Association’s online hiking guide lists than 300 trails.

Discover the Rocky Mountain Front, by Tom Kotynski, provides detailed descriptions on 32 hikes and several side trips with maps, photos and invaluable information from a local who’s been hiking the area for more than 40 years. Montana State Parks: Complete Guide and Travel Companion, by Erin Madison and Kristen Inbody, includes both at-a-glance and detailed, current information for every Montana state park. Or, let expert outfitters take care of it all.

Also, remember wild animals live here. Carry bear spray, watch for rattlesnakes, and know what to do if you encounter dangerous wildlife.  

"It is not what we have that will make us a great nation; it is the way in which we use it."
– Theodore Roosevelt

Enrich your life. Visit Great Falls and go for an unforgettable walk.

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