Go with the Flow: Explore Great Falls and its Waterways (travel article)

April showers bring May flowers, and when coupled with the melting snow cap around Great Falls, they also bring rushing rivers—a condition that fishing and floating enthusiasts dream of. Whether with kayak, canoe, raft or river dory, there’s plenty of the stuff to float your boat, and if waders are the way you roll, you might want to use a belt.

The Wild & Scenic Missouri

Elsewhere, the Missouri River may be called the “Big Muddy” but its cool, clear headwaters flowing through Great Falls are anything but. The Upper Missouri’s natural beauty could be why in 1976 Congress designated 149 miles downstream of Fort Benton as a “National Wild & Scenic River,” promising unspoiled and unobstructed waterway wilderness.

Or maybe it’s for the river’s historic value? In 1805 Meriwether Lewis and William Clark spent weeks paddling the Missouri during their famed expedition, and today the river continues to be a celebrated place to dip an oar. Hire an outfitter for a multi-day exploration to rival that of Lewis and Clark, but before you kayak or canoe their route, a visit to the Lewis & Clark National Historic Trail Interpretive Center is a prerequisite.

Throw Me a Line

Another coveted designation for the “Mighty Mo” (what locals call the Missouri) is its Blue Ribbon Trout Fishing classification. The quality of the fish (rainbow, brown, brook and cutthroat), the water, the environment and the benefits to the surrounding communities elevate trout fishing here to prime status. In addition, the lakes and streams teem with many other species including northern pike, walleye, sturgeon, perch and catfish to name a few.

Fly fishing the fast-moving currents is a great way to, quite literally, immerse yourself in the environment. Finding good footing and feeling the currents rush past your body will exhilarate you well before that first tug.

The Smith River, a Missouri tributary, is another Blue Ribbon trout fishery with views of wooded hills, open meadows and towering canyon walls that promise to take your breath away, even if the excitement of the catch or the fresh water doesn’t. Access to float this pristine 59-mile river is strictly managed by permit and granted by lottery. Apply with Smith River State Park or arrange an unforgettable experience through outfitters who receive regular allotments.

If you can’t get onto Smith River, head to Belt Creek, another beautiful and bountiful tributary that runs for 80 miles. Watch the shoreline for remnants of earlier inhabitants including prospectors and railroaders who also came for the gifts the creek gives. Or, the 130-mile Sun River, which originates in the Rockies and joins the Missouri in Great Falls, boasts fine fly fishing above the Gibson Reservoir.

Ready to give fly fishing a try? Or maybe, you can’t decide where to go? Area outfitters can help you get started. 

Rapid Heartbeats

Looking for a jolt of adrenaline as you float? May through early July, season run-off raises not only water levels but also heart rates. Kayaking, canoeing and rafting Great Falls’ waterways guarantees to get your blood flowing, so you won’t even notice a chill to the water.

The Sluice Boxes State Park on Belt Creek presents a renowned 8-mile section of swift Class II and III water for extreme adventurists. You’ll want to know your row as you encounter white-water rapids strong enough to carve through the Little Belt Mountain’s limestone walls, sharp bends and potential snags. Be sure to strap on the GoPro to prove you pushed the limits and bask in the social media spotlight.

Of course, you can enjoy the rugged beauty of Sluice Boxes without getting wet. A scenic overlook perched high above the park provides breath-taking views without the heart-racing rapids.

For less bold river runners, the Smith and the Mighty Mo offer exceptional Class I paddling experiences, while the Sun River presents a fine run just below the Sun River Dam where it cuts through the steep Sun River Canyon creating rapid flow prime for kayaking. Then, as it converges with the Mighty Mo in Great Falls, stand-up paddleboarding is a popular way to go.

Basecamp Booyahs

In town, the fun continues. Move in any manner of ways along the River’s Edge Trail—53 miles of paved walkways and single-track bike trails (from easy to difficult) that parade you past public parks bursting with activity (visit the end of June and enjoy the Music on the Mo festival), art installations that convey the town’s eclectic vibe, museums and attractions including the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center, downtown eateries, stunning views of the waterfalls, rivers, prairies and mountains, and one of America’s largest freshwater springs at Giant Springs State Park.

The trail’s 20-plus (and counting) public art installations are perfect sites for selfies. Stand tall alongside a bronze statue of Sacagawea at the Missouri River Courthouse; face off with a grizzly bear sculpture at West Bank Park; strike a pose affront the colorful mural under the 1^st Avenue North Bridge; stand up to a 15-foot tall Tyrannosaurus Rex; and run with the colorful “Rainboffalo” (the artistic biproduct of a bison and a rainbow trout).

For more artistic imagery inspired by the iconic West, visit the C.M. Russell Museum which exhibits the largest collection of work by Great Falls former artist-in-residence Charles M. Russell, along with pieces by O.C. Seltzer, Gary Schildt and other western artists, plus artifacts and a notable assortment of Browning firearms. While there, tour Russell’s home and studio, a National Historic Landmark.

Another acclaimed Great Falls’ attraction that will make you feel as if you’ve stepped into another time is the Sip ‘n Dip Lounge at the O’Haire Motor Inn. In 2003 GQ Magazine listed this quirky, mid-century watering hole in their Top 10 Bars in the World and the “number one bar worth flying for.” Since then, media outlets including Frommer’s, USA Today, CBS Sunday Morning and The New York Times have jumped on the bandwagon, or should I say tail fins, to applaud this unusual establishment where their tiki-bar theme features live “mermaids and mermen” swimming in a windowed water tank and Piano Pat, an octogenarian who’s been crooning tunes three nights a week for more than half-a-century!

Less campy but locally flavorful options to wet your whistle include Great Falls’ microbreweries. Mighty Mo Brew Co. (technically a tasting room, so they must close at 8 p.m.) pairs pub grub, live music and fun events with whatever’s on tap at their downtown hangout. Their sudsy creations are also available at other local establishments.

Similarly, the Jeremiah Johnson Brewing Company (formerly the Front Brewing Company) represents the flavors of the area by using locally sourced ingredients in their fermentations like the strong and sturdy Mountain Man Ale and the Golden Bobcat Pale Ale, concocted to celebrate Montana State University’s 125^th Anniversary. Both are currently available on tap and on shelves throughout the state. So, grab a sixer!

Lured? Just go with the flow and start planning your Great Falls getaway now…  and while doing so, remember to play it safe: always carry bear spray, never enter the wilderness alone, have a map and share your itinerary. Now, get packing!

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